Handcrafted with Love: Step into Comfort!
"Walk not just in shoes, but in convictions."
——CALVETO FOUNDER, LUCA ROSSI
At Calveto, every pair of handmade shoes is more than just footwear - it’s a labor of love, a fusion of traditional techniques and modern artistry, and a testament to the beauty of slow, intentional making. Below, we take you behind the scenes of our workshop to reveal the ''10-step process'' that transforms raw leather into a pair of shoes built to last a lifetime.
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Leather Selection: Choosing the Top
The foundation of any great handmade shoe is high-quality leather. We source only full-grain leather (the top layer of the hide to maintain natural grain and strength) or top-grain leather (slightly sanded for a smoother finish) from trusted tanneries. Key criteria:
- Grain Pattern: Uniformity of the leather’s natural texture (no scars or blemishes).
- Thickness: 1.2–1.5mm for uppers (durable yet flexible) and 2–3mm for insoles (supportive).
- Tanning Method: We prefer vegetable tanning (using plant-based extracts like oak or chestnut) for its eco-friendliness and ability to develop a rich patina (unique aging glow) over time. For softer leathers, we use chrome tanning (chrome salts) for a supple feel.
Fun Fact: Each hide is inspected by hand—we reject 30% of hides to ensure only the best make it to our workbench.
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Pattern Cutting & Skiving: Precision in Every Cut
Once the leather is selected, we transfer our custom shoe patterns (digitally designed or hand-drafted) onto the hide using a tracing wheel. The goal? Maximize the selection of the quality leather texture while aligning the leather’s grain with the shoe’s structure (e.g., grain runs parallel to the vamp for strength).
- Skiving: Using a skiver (a sharp, curved blade), we thin the edges of the leather (e.g., at the vamp or quarter seams) to create a smooth, flush finish when sewn. This prevents bulk and ensures a clean look.
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Last Making: The "Footprint" of the Shoe
The last—a 3D mold shaped like a foot—is the backbone of a well-fitting shoe. For custom orders, we start with foot mapping: we are using the foot shapes of tens of thousands of people in our database to create a custom last that suits each customer. For standard sizes, we use hand-carved wooden lasts (adjusted for US standard size foot shapes).
- Key Step: We “break in” the last by stretching it with wet leather—this mimics how your foot will shape the shoe over time.
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Upper Assembly: Building the Shoe’s "Face"
The upper (the part of the shoe that covers the foot) is assembled from individual pieces:
- Vamp: The front part of the upper (covers the toes).
- Quarter: The sides/back of the upper (attaches to the vamp).
- Tongue: The flap that covers the instep.
- Eyelets/Grommets: Metal rings for laces (hand-set for durability).
We join these pieces using cementing (a water-based adhesive for temporary hold) followed by stitching (permanent reinforcement). For a clean look, we use blind stitching (stitches hidden inside the upper) on the vamp.
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Upper Stitching: The "Backbone" of Durability
Using a shoe stitching machine (or hand-sewing for luxury pairs), we sew the upper pieces together with waxed linen thread (waterproof and tear-resistant). Key details:
- Stitch Density: 8–10 stitches per inch (higher than mass-produced shoes) for strength.
- Lockstitch: Each stitch is locked to prevent unraveling—critical for high-wear areas like the toe box.
- Topstitching: Visible stitching on the vamp or quarter (optional) for a classic, handmade look.
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Insole & Heel Construction: Support from the Ground Up
The insole (the layer between your foot and the outsole) is made from thick leather (for breathability) or cork (for cushioning). We attach it to the last using insole tacks (temporary) before sewing it to the upper.
For the heel:
- Stacked Heel: Layers of leather glued and stitched together (common in dress shoes).
- Wooden Heel: Carved from beech or maple (for durability) and covered in leather.
- Heel Nailing: We use counter-sunk heel nails (hidden under the insole) to secure the heel to the outsole—this prevents wobbling over time.
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Outsole Attachment: The Final "Bond"
The outsole (the part that touches the ground) is attached using one of two methods:
- Hand-Stitched Welt: For luxury pairs, we use the Goodyear welt construction—a strip of leather (welt) is sewn to both the upper and the insole, then the outsole is stitched to the welt. This allows for resoleability (a hallmark of high-quality shoes).
- Cemented Sole: For casual shoes, we use a strong, flexible adhesive to bond the outsole to the upper. We press the shoe in a sole press (100–150 PSI) to ensure a tight bond.
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Upper Buffing & Hand Antiquing: Adding Character
This is where each shoe gets its unique personality:
- Buffing: We use a sanding block or rotary buffer to smooth the upper’s surface—this removes any imperfections and prepares the leather for dye.
- Finishing: A final coat of leather conditioner (to soften) and waterproof spray (to protect) completes the look. -
Quality Control: The "No Compromise" Step
Before a shoe leaves our workshop, it undergoes a 12-point inspection:
1. Fit: The shoe is tried on a last to check for gaps or tight spots.
2. Stitching: We pull on the seams to ensure no loose threads (a “pull test” of 5kg force).
3. Leather: We check for scratches, discoloration, or uneven dye.
4. Sole: We tap the outsole to ensure it’s securely attached (no hollow sounds).
5. Heel: We measure the heel height (±1mm tolerance) and check for stability.
If a shoe fails any step, it’s sent back to the workshop for repairs—we never cut corners.
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Packing & Shipping: Sending Your Shoe Into the World
Once approved, your shoe is packed with care:
- Dust Cloth: A cotton dust cloth to protect the leather from scratches.
- Shipping: We use our Priority Express service (upgraded for free, as promised!) to get your shoes to you in 4–6 business days.
Final Touch: A handwritten thank-you note—because every pair of handmade shoes deserves a personal touch.